

When the engine is cold the glow plugs engage on up to the 5th turn of the key, but when it's hot it's always at least 20 attempts before engagement. It started off with the car not engaging the glow plugs for a second and that period got longer until it now only engages the glow plugs on up the 20 or 30th turn of the ignition. Hi All, I've been have some real trouble with my wife's 2. Latest Posts Popular Topics.įlat Ascending Flat Descending Threaded. Need help? We remanufacture electronic automotive parts. You'll have to check your data for its location as there are a lot of fusebox variations on that year. Yes, you dont need the glow plugs when it's hot, but you do need the fuel pump! That's good now pull the top off the engine control relay [maybe still marked ? Originally Posted by faithless.A few more details reqd for any assistance eg year,eng code? By the way, many people have changed their fuel filter as described above with no issues. If my car has issues due to this, this will probably be the last VW I will ever own.

When I do my first fuel filter my self I am going to refill the filter canister the best I can with PS and fresh fuel and take my chances. It's a pretty big debate among TDI owners that service their own cars.
Tdi fuel filter change without vcds how to#
For what it's worth I don't think German engineers would design an engine where changing a fuel filter every 20k miles required a laptop and software,be required to know how to use a laptop computer and which flags to switch on and off to prime the pump in some software. So I got the impression that the techs there just filled it with Stanadyne which is mostly diesel fuelbuttoned things up, and started the car. The parts guy paused for a moment and looked a little befuddled. This is what the techs use to fill the filter with. Originally Posted by amstel When I went to the dealer to buy my first fuel filter element, the parts guy came back with a one-shot bottle of Stanadyne diesel fuel additive and said, "Do you want one of these, too? I've got someone with a cable near me but didn't want to bother them for something as simple as a fuel filter change. Did some searches, but none really answered the second part of my question. I'm sure someone around here has the proper torque specs VF, yesUser Name Remember Me? Fuel filter and fuel system priming without VCDS?Ĭurious, but what's the best way to prime the fuel system after a fuel filter change without a VCDS cable? Someone once told me that it wasn't actually necessary to prime the system just replace filter and refill canister with fuel I have no reservations about buying my own years ago. Of course, I tightened them in a cross pattern, to help it seat properly and evenly. I put them back on about as tight as they were. Sorry, I don't have exact torque specs for the bolts. Maybe the failing temperature sensor was acting exactly opposite of a tuning box or Evry mod. During the initial test drive, I'd swear my car's performance is up a bit. After the install, my car started up without a hitch. Use a clean rag to wipe off the mating surface between the cover and the body of the injection pump. Remove the sensor, then follow the instructions in reverse to finish the job. This could easily be done with a nut driver, as they are not especially tight. Use a TX10 bit to remove the two screws holding the sensor. It looks like it could be installed upside-down, which may or may not affect it's operation. I used a clean rag to soak up some of the diesel fuel around the sensor. Use a wire-tie to secure the cover and keep it out of the way. Now the top will remove, and some fuel will spill out. Use a 13mm socket on the DieselGeek adapter to remove the triangle bolt. These bolts are not very tight Use a TX30 bit to remove three of the bolts. FIRST, place a wad of rags in front of the injection pump to catch the diesel fuel that spills out. Although one special tool is required, the job is quite simple. The sensor resides just under the cover of the fuel injection pump.
